Have fun creating a unique necklace using lots of relatively small beads.
Making basic loops: Two Informative and easy to follow YouTube clips
Making Basic Loops 1: Beaducation
Making Basic Loops Part 2: Beaducation
How to hold those beads together – Threading Materials
Metal:
Beading Stringing Wire
This wire is flexible. The package will indicate the number of strands (7, 19, 49) or the “break” (10, 20 pound breaks). Beading wire is made from several thin wires twisted together and coated with a thin layer of nylon, making it very strong but also very flexible. The more strands used to make the wire, the more flexible it will be. The higher the “break” the more weight the wire can hold. The measure of weight also accounts for the strength of the wire eg, 10 pounds of tension. If you catch your necklace on something it can take 10 pounds of tension before breaking. Stringing wire comes in many different colours.
Memory Wire
Memory wire is gauge wire that has been shaped into coils. The coils can be cut or stretched but cannot be used for wrapping or other decorative wire work. This wire is very strong and returns to it’s original shape. It needs to be cut with memory wire cutters. If you use your everyday cutters the tempered steel will dent the blades.
Wire
Gauge wire has varying flexibility and can be used for stringing beads, wire wrapping, or creating fixed components in a design. Wire is found in precious and non-precious metal.
Precious metal wire includes; gold, silver, palladium and platinum. Silver and gold can also be plated over copper or brass. It must be noted that silver wire will discolour and tarnish over time. It is preferable to buy non-tarnish silver plated wire.
Non-precious metal wire. Includes; brass, copper and aluminium. Aluminium is usually very soft and usually does not have a very refined finish compared to copper and brass. Artistic Craft Wire is very popular. This is colour coated copper wire and it is available in many colours and gauges. This wire is flexible and malleable. It is very affordable and easy to obtain.
Wire gauge determines the thickness or diameter of the wire. The higher the number the thinner or smaller the diameter the wire eg 30 gauge is very fine, 12 gauge is thicker and stiffer.
Wire hardness refers to the malleability or stiffness of a wire and is typically called “Hard” (H) for extremely stiff wire, “Half-Hard” (HH) for stiff wire that is malleable, and “Dead-Soft” (DS) for wire that is very easy to bend.
Artistic Craft wires are Dead Soft and very malleable. Sterling silver and gold-filled wire can be Half-Hard or Dead Soft. Half-hard wire is commonly used when making wire-wrapped jewellery or simple loops. The easiest way to determine the temper of your 20-gauge copper wire: in one hand, hold it about 10cm down from one end and use your finger to push the end. If it bends quite easily, it is soft; if it has some resistance, it is half hard. If you can hardly get it to bend, it is full hard.
Non-metal
Stretchy Elastic thread
This elastic material is usually used for easy to wear bracelets. It is much less durable than metal beading wire. It is important to purchase a good quality beading elastic. It is sold on reels and is quite reasonably priced. They come is different sizes 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 1.0mm The most popular is the 0.7-0.8mm. The 1.0mm is often used for larger beads. Check the right size by threading it through your bead.
Natural and synthetic
Jewellery thread is available in many different materials. Silk and nylon thread are often used for beading.
Real 100% Silk is the traditional way to string beads & feels incredibly smooth & soft. Silk has good tensile strength and little stretch so therefore can be easily worked with & knotted. Necklaces made with silk drape naturally around the contours of the body and always portray a look of elegance and beauty. When your project is pearls or mostly pearls using silk cords is recommended as other stringing materials can hurt the pearls. Silk does break down so jewellery may need to be restrung. Generally, with silk the thicker the thread the higher the number eg Sz 0 is very fine, Sz 14 is much thicker.
Fireline and Wildfire thread. Both threads are thin but incredibly strong, they are fray and stretch resistant, waterproof, easy to thread through a needle, and while Wildfire is available in more colors, Fireline is available in more thicknesses.
Nylon is cheaper more flexible and more durable. C-Lon and S-Lon nylon threads come in a wide range of colours. However, some beads, such as, pearls are usually strung using silk. Silk and nylon are not as durable as wire. Some thread size is indicated by the diameter of the thread eg .23mm diameter, 0.5mm diameter.
C-Lon Cord comes in four sizes: CLMC, CLC.135, CLC, and CLC.400.
C-Lon Micro Cord (CLMC) is the most versatile of our cords. Micro Cord is thin enough for weaving and strong enough for stringing. When working with Miyuki seed and shaped beads Micro Cord is ideal for spiral, peyote, brick stitch, and netting
C-Lon Fine Weight Bead Cord is the newest size of C-Lon. It is slightly thicker than the Micro Cord making it perfect for kumihimo with size 11/0 beads, Swarovski pearls, and Miyuki Long Drop Beads (LDP).
C-Lon Bead Cord (CLC) is our most popular bead cord because it is great for so many different projects. This regular weight C-Lon Cord is ideal for kumihimo using size 8/0 seed beads or shaped beads like Miyuki Square Beads (SB) or Long Magatams (LMA).
C-Lon Heavy Weight Bead Cord (CLC.400) works well as a colorful base for knotting and braiding. Perfect for stringing size 6/0 seed beads or larger, CLC.400 is a good choice for macrame and can also be used in Kumihimo projects
Adapted Caravan Beads
Leather, suede and other cords
These cords are available in many sizes shapes and colours. These options are attractive when combined with metal. These are readily available from jewellery suppliers and haberdasheries. They easy to connect using end caps findings or knotting methods.
Ribbon and satin ribbons
These are available in many sizes shapes and colours often ribbon is combined with other threads for jewellery making.
Monofilament
This is often transparent synthetic cord, similar to fishing line. It is available in different strengths based on the amount of weight it can hold.
Scribbling design
I find myself continually picking up my pencil to draw a rough shape. It always clarifies what is on my mind. Inevitably the first scribble does not end up being the final piece.
Lots of fun at Everything Old Is New Again: Recycle-Upcycle Jewellery Course
Week 1: Fabulous work from the Red Point Artist’s Expressive Monday Course. These creative crafters were using lots of jewellery components that I have been given to recycle-upcycle by very generous people over the past 12 months.
When I make jewellery these are my ‘go to’ places to source the right components
The Bead Shack – REAR & UNDERNEATH MILLERS ARCADE, 123-125 Fern St, Gerringong NSW 2534. 10am-4pm every day. To make your appointment call Kerry on 0415612601 between 10am & 4pm any day of the week, or email info@beadshack.com.au www.beadshack.com
Mala Beads – 57 Moore St, Austinmer 2020 Thursday – Sunday 10am-4pm – specialise in glass and resin
https://www.facebook.com/MalaBeadsShop/
Lilies & Lace – Bead Shop – 141 Wentworth St, Port Kembla 2505 M: 0435 565 342 Wed-Fri 10am-4pm Sat 9am-1pm
I Love You Beads – 311 Parramatta Rd, Leichhardt NSW 2040 – Monday -Sunday 10am-6pm – (02) 9572 8288 – https://www.beadchoice.co/contact/ Warehouse Address: 311 Parramatta Road, Leichhardt NSW 2040, Sydney, Australia – Members only- $10pa membership Phone: (+612) 9572 8288 or 0430597696 (Welcome to place in Phone order or message us) Email: leichhardt@iloveyou.net.au Facebook Page:http://www.facebook.com/pages/I-Love-You-Beads-Shop/414586662432
Bead Them Up – semi-precious gems – silver & gold – RAMSGATE:
Shop 3,284-290 Rocky Point Rd (Entry via Dillon St ) Ramsgate NSW 2217 [P] (02) 9529 9982Hours:9.30am-4pm Monday-Saturday – (Closed Sunday and Public holidays) email: info@beadthemup.com.au- website: www.beadthemup.com.au
Over the Rainbow: Polymer Clay, Jewellery and Beading Supplies Website: www.polymerclay.com.au
8 Seasons – www.8seasons.com
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads – www.firemountaingems.com
AliExpress – Website: www.aliexpress.com
Panda Hall – Website: http://www.pandahall.com
Art Beads – Website: www.artbeads.com
Crystal – www.chinesecrystalbeads.com
Palloys – Precious metal: silver – chain, wires, findings www.palloys.com
Inspire With Wire – www.inspirewithwire.com.au
Aussie Maille – chain maille supplieswww.aussiemaille.co
Rio Grande – jewelery suppies www.riogrande.com
Gemcuts – lapidary and jewellery tools www.gemcuts.com.au
Ebay
Etsy
My essential tools for making jewellery
Flush cutters (wire cutters)
Flush cutters have jaws that meet at an angle. One side of the cutters is flat and the other side are bevelled. The angle of the flash cutters enable you to cut finer jewellery wires. Using this type of cutter you are able to trim and remove smaller areas and parts. Flush cutters offer a more refined cut. They are available in several different grades generally the higher the cost the straighter and neater the cut. It is most important when you cut wire you use the middle part of the flush cutter blade. If you try to cut at the bottom of the blade you will find it is most difficult to cut. It is similar to when you are using a pair of scissors. Always cut down into your beading mat to prevent the wire from flying into the air where it may cause damage.
Round nose pliers
These pliers are an essential tool for making wire jewellery. They are used for making curved shapes bends and loops. The jaws are tapered like a cone. Various sized loops can be made with these tapered pliers. Round nose pliers ah the most flexible pliers to use because they have the ability to shape and form wire without marking or damaging the piece.
Flat nose pliers
These pliers rectangular shaped jaws that can hold and bend angular shapes and sharp corners. The large rectangular surface of the jaws means that you can get a strong grip on wire, as well as, the ability to flatten and straighten wire.
Flat nose pliers
These pliers rectangular shaped jaws that can hold and bend angular shapes and sharp corners. The large rectangular surface of the jaws means that you can get a strong grip on wire, as well as, the ability to flatten and straighten wire.
Curved chain nose pliers
These are chain nose pliers that have been curved in a forward angle. These are tapered and bent the jaws that offer better access areas that are difficult to reach. They provide a strong grip in hard to access areas. They are very useful in the opening and closing of small loops and jump rings. They are frequently used when working with chain maille.
Nylon jaw pliers
These pliers will help to prevent marking the wire, particularly when you are using coloured wire. They are also used to run down wire to remove kinks and to strengthen/temper (harden) the wire. The jaws of these pliers are covered in nylon. This prevents marking or damage to metal and in particular wire.
Not essential tools but they make my jewellery making so much easier
Crimping pliers
These pliers are designed to squash and fold crimp. Using these pliers will give you a more professional finish to your jewellery. The pliers have jaws with two channels. The one at the back squeezes the crimp into a U shape. The U shape crimp is then inserted into the front channel. It is folded in half and this shapes it into a neat and secure crimp. Good quality crimping pliers will give a good quality finish.
Cup Burr
A cup burr is a specific tool used for smoothing the end of a piece of wire. It has a metal cup shaped file end. The wire is inserted into the cup and the handle is then rotated clockwise and anticlockwise to round off and remove the sharp edges. It is often used when making ear wires.
Memory wire cutters
These cutters made to cut into stainless steel memory wire. This wire is very strong. Do not use the flash cutters or side cutters to cut memory wire because the wire will damage the cutters.
End cutters
These cutters used for removing protruding wire ends or for cutting heavy gauge wires. The plier jaws meet at a straight angle perpendicular to the wire. Small areas cannot be accessed by these cutters. They are not often used for fine wire work.
Book Review: Local Colour – Seeing Place Through Watercolor
Book Review: Local Colour – Seeing Place Through Watercolor
Author: Mimi Robinson
Publisher: Princeton Architectural Press 2015
IBSN: 978-1-61689-297-5
I found this to be a truly inspirational book. I bought this book while i was exploring an eclectic bookshop in Paddington, Sydney, Australia. I had an hour to fill in while I was waiting for friends. So, I though this seemed like an unusually creatively designed book and I looked forward to browsing and flicking through the different chapters. However, when I started to read it, the hour flew by and I was still reading page by page, front to back when my friends arrived. Mimi Robinson had my undivided attention from the moment I read the ‘Introduction’ where she explained the relationship between her colour palettes and her ‘deep connection to the beauty of nature and the changing seasons’. I really didn’t want to put the book down and that is rare for me when I read non-fiction books.
Mimi Robinson encourages you to ‘collect a visual memory of your place in time’. The content in each chapter is written in a narrative style that is interspersed with the practicalities of watercolour skills and techniques. I found the book an extremely pleasurable read and I particularly like the plethora of visual examples. The contents consist of; Introduction, Chapter 1 Getting Grounded: My Backyard, Chapter 2 Getting Started: Materials, Preparation and Techniques, Chapter 3 Look Around You: Elements of Place, Chapter 4 World Color: Travel Journeys, Chapter 5 Wherever You Go: Field Studies, Chapter 6 Palettes to Painting: Some Places, Chapter 7 Color Mixing: The Basics, Further Reading.
As the title says ‘seeing places through watercolor’. The ‘places’ that she explores are represented by individual watercolor palettes. Mimi Robinson explores her world through colour palettes. She suggests that you look for the colour palette in each place your know or visit. You can then either create a colour palette on site (Chapter 5 Wherever You Go: Field Studies), or from a photo that you have taken of the place that you visited.
After reading the seven pages in Chapter 2 Getting Started: Materials, Preparation and Techniques, I felt that I would feel confident to experiment in watercolour painting. The materials were easy to obtain and she emphasised the need to start with just a few colours. I believe that the essential equipment needed would be within a very reasonable price range for most people.
One of the intriguing elements of Mimi Robinson’s journey is the way she creates her own colour names. Colour names, such as, ‘lagoon, cheese, eel grass, tide line, summer grasses, fog in trees, cliff at sunset’ ignite your imagination and before long you are forming your own image of that place in your mind. In Chapter 3 Look Around You: Elements of Place, Mimi Robinson shows you the ‘rhythm’ of light through the various times of the day. She develops a colour palette for the same place at different times of the day, for example, morning, midday, afternoon and evening.
Through her individualised colour palettes, Mimi Robinson takes you on numerous adventures from her local and familiar places in Northern California (Chapter 1 Getting Grounded: My Backyard) to the exotic Kyrgyzstan Peru and West Indies (Chapter 4 World Color: Travel Journeys). I’m looking forward to starting my own adventurous journey through the use of colour palettes in my textile and fabric painting.
I have my art journey ready to go and I have already started taking photos of my familiar and favourite places. I will then pay particular attention to Chapter 6 Palettes to Painting: Some Places, and Chapter 7 Color Mixing: The Basics, before translating the palettes into a variety of surface design items. Thank you Mimi Robinson for your creative and inspirational book.